MOVING ON UP… THIS BLOG HAS MOVED!

I’d like to take this opportunity to announce a momentous technical and logistical triumph. My blog has officially been moved and is now integrated into lydonphoto.com. Okay, it wasn’t that much of a triumph, but it’s nice to have everything in one place now.

The new blog address is www.lydonphoto.com/theblog/

 
All of the new blog posts will be there from now on, as well as the archived material.

Thanks for reading everyone!

JR Pass Destination: Miyajima Island

If you are staying in Hiroshima and have the JR pass, a short train ride and a ferry will get you to the lush, picturesque, deer heaven that is Miyajima Island for free. Of course, you may still have to pay for the streetcar in Hiroshima…

A street trolley in Hiroshima, Japan

Miyajima Island is, according to the Japanese Government’s completely objective rating system, one of the ‘top 3 scenic spots in Japan’. They seem to do this type of thing a lot as my next destination, Okayama, has the ’3rd most beautiful garden’ in Japan. These designations may seem slightly silly, but they are important points of pride in the community where the landmarks exist.

In this case,  I would also have to agree that Miyajima Island is an amazingly beautiful place with a great feeling about it. The deep, dark forests that line the hillsides leading up to Mt. Misen are punctuated every now and then with bright green patches, and a light eternal mist seems to hang over many of the small valleys.

Miyajima Island view from the JR ferry

In the town, deer roam freely and act nearly like domesticated pets. They also have a hankering for anything edible, including tourist maps. I was lucky, this one only took a bite out of the ocean…

Maps are a staple of the Miyajima deer diet

The deer on Miyajima think they own the place. Then again, maybe they do.

The walk/hike route I chose wandered through town and up to the top of Mt. Misen. The first stop is the shopping street, a classic feeling small-town walkway covered by cloth to protect from the elements.

The main Miyajima Shopping Street

The further you get from the town and dock, the more sparse groups of schoolchildren and tourists become. Nature begins to take over from here on and Miyajima Island becomes a strangely intoxicating thing to see, feel, hear, and smell. In comparison to the number of people on the island at any one time, very few people actually hike to the mountain top, but the transitions from tourist town, to quiet village, to deep forest, to mountain top are just too incredible to miss out on.

Small canal makes its way from Mt. Misen to the ocean

A deer strolls lazily by the picturesque Itsukushima Shrine

My hiking buddies on the way up to Mt. Misen

A southern Miyajima Island view from Mt. Misen

Kana and Asami take in the view of Miyajima Island from Mt. Misen

Waterfall at Momijidani Park on Miyajima Island

One of the specialties of the island are handmade wooden rice spatulas. Cool to be sure, but lets face it, I was more interested in what you make with cooking utensils than the utensils themselves. I made my way straight for the Miyajima Steamed Buns, mine was filled with tender beef and sauce. On the way back down, I sampled some deep fried red-bean and custard cakes, called ‘Age Momiji’.

Delicious Miyajima Steamed Buns!

Fried Age Momiji comes with various fillings including sweet red bean paste and custard

Right on the other side of the shopping street is the famous floating tori or ‘gate’ and Itsukushima Shrine. The gate and shrine have been at the same site — in various incarnations — since 593 or thereabouts. The floating tori, is not actually floating, but standing upon the sea floor. Waiting around for low tide provides a full view of the tori, and often a more peaceful one as the island shops close up around 5pm and all of the tour and school groups pack up and head out.

The night brings a light drizzle of rain to Miyajima Island, Itsukushima Shrine is seen in the distance

Detail of the barnicles that cling to Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima

The 'floating' Itsukushima Shrine is revealed at low tide

I left the island just around dusk, when the lanterns that line the coast come to life, and only locals and a few scattered island hotel guests roam the streets.It’s mostly comforting to stand and take it in… well, except for the thought of the last ferry leaving!

One of the many lanterns that line the coast of Miyajima Island

Yatai in Fukuoka

First stop on the week shinkansen (bullet train) trip is Fukuoka. Fed up with the cold, rainy weather in Yokohama and Tokyo, I decided I’d go as far south as possible and ended up here.

Well, it’s warmer here for sure, but just as rainy.

My first night, however, was an amazing adventure in “social fooding” as I think the translation might go. One of the special treats here in Fukuoka are the “yatai” food stalls set up along the numerous canals. Most of these are mobile shops that sell ramen noodles, grilled chicken “yakitori” on skewers, and various other meats.

I think the secret to this place, however, is not necessarily in the food, but in the atmosphere created by the people, the outdoor setting, and possibly by the free-flowing Japanese beer as well… A seat at a yatai stall gets you a nice meal, and more often than not, a great conversation with some of the locals here in Fukuoka.

Here’s a sampling from my first night of yatai-ing:

Yatai Food Stalls in Fukuoka, Japan

Backside of Yatai food stall in Fukuoka, Japan

Yatai Food Stalls in Fukuoka, Japan

New Friends at a Yatai in Fukuoka

Yakitori from a yatai in Fukuoka, Japan

A Yatai stall owner and his son in Fukuoka, Japan.

Beer and Ramen at Yatai in Fukuoka, Japan

Preparing Yakitori at a Yatai in Fukuoka

Funny man who kept buying me drinks at Yatai in Fukuoka

Frijoles and the Quest for Burrito

Japan has a thousands stomachs worth of options when it comes to both local and international cuisine, but the big thing that any Californian like myself will find missing is MEXICAN food. Well, mexican, tex-mex, cal-mex, etc… anything that bases its menu on beans, cheese, carnitas, and tortillas.

I’m happy to report that after a month of casual searching, I found such a place, quite randomly, by walking down a small street in the Azabu-Juban district of Tokyo.

Yukimi, a Frijoles "Apmlifier" spoons some fresh ingredients at Frijoles Burritos and Tacos in Azabu-Juban, Tokyo

I mentioned to my burrito maker that the place really reminds me of the U.S. chain of Chipotle shops, but she  smartly reminds me that this place is an independent shop. Indeed, although the interior stylings and personal assembly line style of creating food is similar to that of Chipotle, I am reminded that this is not the aforementioned chain store. Only part of that is a realization of the fact that I’m in Japan.

A Frijoles Carnitas Burrito with homemade tortilla chips and a root beer. A welcome treat!

The chips, first of all, are amazing. Although they tipped the price of my meal a well over the 1,000 Yen mark ($10 USD). All of the ingredients (I ordered pinto beans, fresh salsa, guacamole, sour cream, cheese, and carnitas) are extremely fresh. The carnitas are tender and flavorful, yet maybe a little more “mushy” than what I would be used to from a burrito shop in the states. They also tend to go light on the rice and sides, and heavy on the meat, which will garner no complaints from me. I love meat. Just make sure to specify if you like more or less of anything, after all, they do make it right in front of your eyes!

Frijoles Burritos and Tacos is owned by restaurateur Hiroshi Miyano, and located in the Azabu Juban district of Tokyo.  It’s a worthwhile trip to this area alone for the traditional Japanese snack-food shopping, adding a burrito the trip is just the guacamole on top…

Do it Like a Businessman: Chicken and Beer

Get off work, and head out for beer and some quick eats at a little place like the one I found below.

The smoke billowing out of a half-opened window produces an aroma of meats and sweet sauces, all burnt to a crisp over open flames. From inside the dining area, an ebb and flow of conversation punctuated by staccato outbursts of laughter, and the phrase “sumimasen!” as  a group of rowdy businessmen order up another round of beer.

So far as I’ve heard, this is a big part of the drinking culture in Japan’s urban areas.

A Local Izakaya in Minato, Tokyo

And what better way to experience it than to just walk on in and try it out? Of course, I’m not dressed the part, but perhaps I’ll save the suit and tie for next time.

There’s no English menu of course, and only a few photos to point at. I start off with a Yebisu. Beer is easy enough, and from the looks of it, expected.

Menu and the easy part... Yebisu!

Fortunately for me, the very chipper waiter speaks some choice English… at least enough to recommend a typical chicken dish for me. Before that comes out though, he brings a complimentary sweet/salty (beef?) stew type dish. The meat was sliced super thin and oh so tender, really amazing stuff.

Complimentary Appetizer Dish

Then out came chicken and shredded lettuce, covered with a crazy tartar-type sauce. It, too, was excellent, although I subconsciously warned myself not to do this every night. Will I listen to that notion tomorrow? Unlikely.

Chicken Karaage

Done with the chicken, some potatoes, two beers,  and a complimentary glass of special sake, I just enjoyed sitting in this place and listening to the general tones of mirth and merriment.  Of course, taken as a daily routine, this sort of thing also tends to cause stain on relationships which are external to the business world. Perhaps more on that later, but for this moment, all is good in this Izakaya.

Wonderful Chef and Waiter